Woven fabric and the process of its manufacture



F-An

Jan. 3 1928. 1,655,387

E. l. GOLDING WOVEN FABRIC AND THE PROCESS OF ITS MANUFACTURE Filed Dec. '7, 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet l VVARPING MACHIN JUNI!!! INVENTOR Edwin L* Golding.

AT TORNE Jan. 3 1928. 1,655,387

E. l. GoLDlNG WOVEN FABRIC AND THE PROCESS OF ITS MANUFACTURE Filed Dec. '7. 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 l A| A' A INVENTOR Edwin I. GOrd In@ BY) Y,

ATTORNEY Patented Jan. 3, 1928.

UNITED STATES EDWIN I. GOLDING, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.,

PATENT OFFICE'.

ASSIGNOB T BTEHLI FABRICS CORPORA- TION, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

WOVEN FABRIC AND TBE PBCESS 0F ITS IANIII'FAC'ITJRE.n

Application ma member 7, 1327. serial no. 233,314.

My present invention relates generally to a woven fabric and coordinately relates to the method for its production.

y As my invention in one of its aspects involves the association in a single weave of differently formed yarns, one of which I will herein term a filamentary yarn and the other of which is known as twisted or crepe yarn, I will premise that a ilamentary yarn 1o is one formed directly from straight cocoon filaments; for example, filaments being simultaneously withdrawn from sixteen cocoons. These filaments are caused to adhere to each other by the natural sericin or gum of the cocoon, to form what I have termed a filamentary yarn lwhich is straight or untwisted, and this term whenever hereinafter employed, will be so understood unless the context calls for a dii'erent interpretation. During the boil off of the fabric containing filamentary yarns, the natural gum of the cocoon, whichserved as the binder, is removed to a'great extent and the individual filaments of the yarn tend to spread so that the yarn after the weaving and the boil off spreads and becomes fluffy.

A twisted or crepe yarn is formed by twisting together two or more fialmentary yarns, the crepe yarn employed by me using three filamentary yarns twisted sixty-four times to the inch. The twist puts a permanent twist or kink in the yarn. Before weaving the yarn is set by steam, and woven while set. After the completed fabric is boiled ott, the crepe yarn again becomes twisted or crinkled, and gives to the fabric a crinkly or pitted effect. Crepe yarn is closely compacted and might be termed hard and brittle.

In the drawings forming part of this application, I have illustrated the employment of wefts or picks all of the same character, and of warps some of which are llamentary yarn and others of which are twisted or crepe yarn, and I will so describe my invention. It will be understood, however, that this is done merely for purposes of illustration and is not to be construed in any sense as limitative, unless called for by the language of the claims or by the state of the prior knowledge or prior art.

One of the objects of my lnventlon 1s the production of a woven fabric in which a striped effect is produced wholly by the employment of both ilamentary yarn and twisted or crepe yarn for the warp and is indepenedent of all other factors.

My present invention is to be distinguished from the treatment of yarns witha mordant and the use of such mordant-treated yarns with other yarns not so treated, so that in the dyed fabrics the treated yarns will give a different effect from the others, and by proper association of these yarns a striped effect is produced. It is also to be distinguished from the employment of dif- :ferently colored yarns for the production of the stripes. So also is it to be distinguished from taffeta having a satin stripe in the production of which two weaves are employed, and in which the striped effect is produced by a difference in weave.

In accordance with the practice of the embodiment of my invention herein illustrated and described, I employ two warp beams,

one carrying the filamentary yarns and the other the twisted or crepe yarns. The threads of yarns on each beam are in spaced groups with the groups on one beam positioned so as to be intermediate the groups on the other warp beam. The twisted or crepe yarns are warped on the beam in regular order, two right twist yarns following two left twist yarns, and so on, the twists being distinguished by a, slight tint to one which ultimately disappears. The process herein is illustrated` for example, only as intended to produce stripes of equal width throughout the fabric and each group of yarns on both beams therefor extends along its beam for the same length. There are, however, much fewer yarns in each group on the twisted or crepe warp beam. The wefts or picks are all illustrated as being twisted or crepe yarn. The weave is a simle taileta Weave throughout, only one shed being used, which is common to both warp beams and which sheds both the lamentary yarns and the twisted yarns. The warp beams are let off differentially, because one of the warp beams carries twisted rough yarn or threads and the other carries a smooth, soft yarn or thread.

When the woven fabric is boiled oi, the

2o stripes giving the effect of a darker s twisted yarns or warps resume their twist, and give a crinkly effect. The filamentary yarns, however, due to the boil off, lose a great deal if not most of the natural binder associated therewith from the cocoon, and each .spreads considerably and becomes larger and iluier. In other words, the former becomes crinkly or wavy; the latter sort of intlates or tlufs up and becomes softer, due to the fact that the numerous' filaments of which it is made, spread.

When the fabric woven as above described is dyed a single color, I find that although the Weave is the same throughout and the yarn alike in all respects throughout, except that some warps are twisted and others straight, that there is thereby produced a fabric with beautiful stripes, distinguished from each other optically by one group of linde and the intermediate group of stripes giving the eli'ect of a lighter shade, even though as a fact they are dyed alike and at the same time.

This striping effect results from a number of factors. One of these is the fact that those bands having the filamentary warps are relatively opaque due-partly to the greater number of Warp yarns per unit length of weft as compared with the number per unit in the adjacent bands having twisted warps, and partly to the fact that the flamentary yarns spread after the boil oil', whereas the twisted yarns do not act thatway. They crinkle. Another fact is a difference in the light refleeting and absorbing characteristics of fabric portions having a-twisted Warp as compared with those having a. ilamentary warp. The crinkly fabric is dull looking.

One of the important features of my invention is the production of a fabric having a striped effect, by the employment of warps all of which are made of the natural cocoon filament and differ from each other only in the manner in which the warp yarns are formed, some warps being twisted and others straight, all the warps however having the same or a common shed.

Another important feature of my invention is the production of a fabric giving the appearance of being made up of lighter and darker stripes, which appearance is not dependent on a change in the weave or any change in the dye, or any treatment which will cause a commonV dye to act differently on different yarns or on different portions of the fabric.

Another object of my invention is the production of a fabric which wltilepivoven the saine throughout, and dyed the same throughout, and made of the same filament throughout, nevertheless ives the effect of lighter stripes ntersperse with darker stripes.

The remarkable striped effect of the fabric produced as above setlout I attribute to a great extent to the difference m the light transmitting and light reflecting characteristics between those portions having filamentary warps `and those portions having twisted or crepe Warps.

Another feature of my invention therefore is in the production of a fabric giving the appearance of lighter and darker stripes, which is wholly or partly the result of the difference in the light transmitting and light reflecting characteristics of different portions of the fabric.

It will be understood from what has already been said that oneA group of spaced stripes has a crepe weft and a twisted or crepe Warp and the stripes intermediate have a twisted or crepe weft and a filamentary warp. The bands having the crepe warps form a sheer fabric which is relatively brittle and less resistant to strain and stresses than are those bands or fabric port-ions having the' tilamentary warps which form a much stronger, relatively opaque and more flexible fabric.

My claim to invention in this application is directed to the production of a composite fabric having portions which have the characteristics of one, associated with portions which have thc characteristics of the other, so that each gains by the resence of the other. The o aque fabric bene ts by the sheerness of the ot er, and the sheer fabric benefits from the reinforcing action of the other. In addition, while each of these fabrics by itself may be attractive, the pattern effect resulting from their association in the manner set forth is something absolutely new and different from that given by either.

As the apparatus developed by me for the production of the fabric herein disclosed as my invention is not claimed herein, but is to be the subject-matter of a separate application, it has been shown only diagrammatieally and merel for urposes of illustrating how the fabric 1s pro uced.

For the attainment of those objects and features as have already been pointed ont or as may hereinafter appear, I have illustrated my -new fabric along with a diagrammatic showing of an apparatus employing my new process for its production, and reference is made to the drawings wherein:-

Fig. 1 shows diagraniniatically the manner of and the apparatus for warping the untwisted raw silk.

Fig. 1^ shows the warp beam carrying the uutwisted yarn.

Fig. 2 is a similar showing of the manner of' and apparatus for warping the crepe or twisted yarn. l

Fig. 2A shows the warp beam carrying the twisted or crepe yarn.

Fig. 3 is a section across the fabric parallel to a weft showing the binding or weave.

Fig. 4 shows dagrammatically in top lan View a 100m employed in my process; an

Fig. 5 is a face view of a section of my fabric on an enlarged scale, showing adjacent stripes.

`Referring first to Fig. 3 of the drawing, which shows the binding or weave, reference character 10 is applied t the weft or pick which islnade of crepe yarn, and the picks are ofthe same characterl throughout the fabric. The warps are of two characters, the reference character 11 being applied to the twisted warps and 12 to the straight or filamentary warps. These warps are arranged ,in groups, alternately, first one group of straight or tilamentary warps and then a group of twisted or crepe warps, and so on. In Fig. 3 of the drawing I have only shown for purposes of simplicity of illustration, the employment in each group of crepe warps of only iive of such warps, and in each group of straight or filainentary warps the use of sixteen of such warps. The illustration of this speciiic number of each group is merely, as stated, for purposes of simplicity of illustration, because as a matter of fact a stripe which will be produced by this mimber of warps will be an extremely narrow one and as a matter of fact in order to pro-` duce a stripe of the character shown in Figs. 4 and 5 of the drawing, the number of warps in each group are many times the number shown. However, Fig. 3 of the drawing does show that where it is desired to attain a stripped effect, with the stripes all of equal width, the relative proportion between the two groups as shown in Fig. 3 should be maintained. The linear space occupied by each group is, however, the same where the strips are of the same width. It will be observed, on viewing Fi ing. that the weave illustrated is a simple taffeta onetwo, one-two weave throughout the fabric, this weave being common to both groups of warps.

In the apparatus shown in Fig. 4 of the drawing, there are employed two warp beams, the warp beam A having warped thereon the untwisted raw silk and the warp beam B having warped thereon the twisted or crepe silk. These are warped on the beams in spaced groups, each group corresponding to a stripe toV be produced and being of the width of the stripe which it is intended or desired to produce; and these groups aie staggered one with relation to the other. The reference character A is applied to the groups of untwisted raw silk and the reference character B' to the groups of twisted or crepe yarn. The shedding mechanism is shown at C, all the warps of both beams bein shed together so as to produce a fabric aving a common weave throughout. At Dis shown diagrammatically the shuttle box apparatus by which the picks are thrown, these picks all being of the saine character throughout, namely, of

3 and 5 of the drawthe-twisted or crepe yarn. At E is shown the take up beam. Y

In connection with this apparatus I have found that in view of the fact that some of the warps are rough, stii and compact,

and other warps are smooth and soft, there must be a differential action in the left olf of the, two beams. `I have not illustrated this part of my apparatus because it is not essential to this invention herein claimed, and make reference thereto only for the urposes of a full understanding of the broa er steps of my process.

Figs. 1 and 2 show diagrammatically the warping machine for the two characters of yarnheinployed. The warping of the untwisted yarn is shown at Fig. 1, and for the purposes of illustration I have shown forty spools F on the frame G so as to provide forty untwisted war s 12 in each group A. In Fig. 2 I show t e manner o warping the crepe beam, twenty-seven spools H being liereinshown for illustration so as to provide twenty-seven crepe yarns 11 in each group to'forni the group B. It will be understood, of course, that the use of twenty-seven spools on one and forty spools on the other is not intended to give the relative proportion of tlie numbers in each group, because that would depend both upon the actual as well as the relative widths of the diiferent stripes which it is desired to obtain the proportion shown in Fi 3 of the drawing being found satisfactor y me in the production of a fabric having stripes of equal width.

In Fi s. 1A and 2IL I show the warp beams A andy these beams will s ow the staggered relationshi of the groups. y

At t e lower end of Fig. 4 of the drawing I .show the completed fabric giving a striped eect, in which the stripes 12 'hav'- ing crepe warpsI only, alternate with the stri es 11' which show the fabric sections having the twisted warp, Fig. 3 showing this diagrammatically.

fully warped and a comparison of Illu Y. In Fig. 5 of the drawing I have attempted i to show on an enlarged scale what the fabric looks like, the fabric section orstripe 11 having twisted wefts or piclrsland straight or filamentary warps 11, and the adjacent section 12 having the same twisted wefts or picks as the section 11' but having all its warps made of the twisted yarn 12.

I'have already referred hitherto to the general character of the straight or filamentary warps and the crepe or twisted warps or yarns land their manner of formation, and it is unnecessary to repeat this.

The fabric of the character shown in Fig.

5 of the drawing, and woven in accordance with the process illustrated in Fig. 3, when boiled off causes the flamentary warp threads 11 to spread and become fluffy, because of the fact that in such boil ot the natural gums present are removed to a great extent. This causes the war s 12 woven in the sections 12 of the fabric to swell and become fiuffy. On the other hand, after the boil off of the fabric, the twisted War s 11 of the sections 11', which prior to t e weaving process were set by steam, again resume their crinkled condition and each warp becomes more drapy than it was immediately before the boil off. The tendency of the filaments of the warps l1 to separate and to swell, as al1-cad referred to, is compared with what might e termed a reverse action on the part of the twisted warps 11,-part1cularly when accompanied by the use of a greater number of straight or filamentary warps or straight wefts per linear unit than twisted warps 11, will make the fabric sections or stripes 11 relatively opaque and the adjacent fabric sections or strlpes 12 relatively transparent. As a matter of fact, in the embodiment disclosed herein the proportion between the two warps used per linear unit and the actual numbers of each that are used per linear inch is such as to make the crepe or filamentary sections or stripes 12 opaque and the adjacent twisted -warp threads 11 transparent.

This associatmn of sections or stripes of the character set forth gives to the composite fabric the remarkable effect because of the contrast between the stripes and this contrast is materially enhanced because of the background which can be seen through the transparent sections 11.

The fabric sections or stripes 12' form. a fairly smooth, soft, strong, flexible fabric, whereas the fabric sections or stripes 11' form a rougher, sheer fabric.

It will be understood that the use of the natural filament of the cocoon isdeseribed as employed herein although phases of my invention do not require this. It will furthermore be understood the production of a longitudinal stripe necessitates that the variation in the yarn be in the warp threads and it is for this reason that it has been so illustrated.

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:-

1. A woven fabric comprising alternate zones, one of the zones comprising a group of warp threads. each warp thread being made up of straight silk filaments held together by the natural gum of the cocoon, and an adjacent zone `comprising a group o'f twisted crepe silk warp threads, said groups of warp threads being held together by wefts whereby in the finished fabricand after the boil off, the warp threads of the first mentioned zone become disengaged and the warp threads of the second mentioned zone become kinked so as to produce a con trasting striped effect between the zones.

2. A woven fabric comprising alternate zones, one of the zones comprising a group of warp threads, each warp thread being made up of straight silk filaments held to gether by the natural gum of the cocoon, and an adjacent zone comprising a group of twisted crepe silk warp threads, said Groups of warp threads being held together by wefts, the fabric being similarly interlaced throughout, whereby in the finished fabric and lafter the boil ofi', the warp threads of the first mentioned zone become disengaged, and the warp threads of the second mentioned zone become kinked so as to produce a contrasting striped effect between the zonesLm ,Y A

3. A Woven fabric comprising alternate zones, one of the zones comprising a Group of warp threads, each warp thread eing made 11p-of straight silk filament held together y the natural gum of the cocoon, and an adjacent zone comprising a group `of twisted crepe silk warp threads, the individual warp threads of said first mentioned group being ositioned closer together than the thre s of the other group, said groups of warp threads being held together by wefts whereby in the finished fabric and after the boil off, the warp threads of the first mentioned zone become disengaged, and the warp threads of the second mentioned zone become kinked so as to produce a contrasting striped effect between the zones.

4. A woven fabric comprising a weft, and warps arranged in alternate roups to form stripes, the individual weft t ireads and the warp threads of one of said groups being twisted crepe silk yarn,v and the individual warp threads of said other group being silk filaments held together by the natural gum of the cocoon, and being, relative to the. threads of the first group, spaced closer to each other, the interlacing of the fabric being uniform throughout the length of the Wefts, whereby in the finished fabric and after the boil oli', the portions of SaidY fabric defined by the warps of twisted crepe silk will be relatively more transparent than the portions defined by the warps of silk filments.

5. The process of forming a striped woven fabric which includes the steps of weaving a fabric by the employment as warps of groups, of' twisted crepe yarns alternating with groups of yarns, the last mentioned yarns being each made up of silk filaments `held together bythe natural gum of' the eocoon, and then boiling off' the fabric so formed whereby the twisted yarns will kink and the filaments of the other warp yarns will spread. h

6. The process of forming a. woven fabric with contrasting stripes which includes the steps of weaving a fabric by the employment lll) as Warps of groups of twisted crepe yarns yarns will spread, and then applying a dye alternating with groups of yarns, the last to saidfabrie, whereby a fabric will be promentioned yarns being e'ach made up of silk duced havingstrpes of different shades. 10 filaments held together b v the natural gum In Witness whereof I have signed this :1p-

5 of the cocoon, and boiling off the fabric plication.

so formed whereby the twisted yarns Will kink and the filaments of the other warp EDWIN I. GOLDING.

as Warps of groups of twisted crepe yarns alternating with groups of yarns, the last mentioned yarns being each made up of silk filaments held together by the natural gum yarns will spread, and then applying a dye to said fabric, whereby a fabric will be produced having stripes of different shades.

In witness whereof I have signed this apof the cocoon, and boiling oli the fabric plication.

so formed whereby the twisted yarns will kink and the filaments of the other warp EDWIN I. GOLDING.

DSCDLAIMEIR.

1,655,387.-Edwz'11. I. Golding, New York, N. Y. VVovnN FABRIC AND THE PROCESS oF rrs MANUFAGTURE. Patent dated January 3, 1928. Disclaimer filed February 10, 1928, by the assignee, Stehl Fabrics' Corporation.

Hereby disclaims any fabric which falls within claims 1, 2, 3, and 4 unless the Warp threads of twisted arene silk are twisted some right and some left and are arranged in regular order, right twist threadsfollowing left twist threads, and so on; and also disclaims any fabric' which falls within claims l and 2 unless each twisted'thread is formed by twisting together a plurality of filamentary yarns suchdas are used as warps 1n the rst mentioned zone in the fabric of said claims 1` an 2.

[Oficial Gazette February 28, 1.928.]

1,655,387. Edwin Gaf/Img, New York, N. Y. 7m-HN Fiumi: AND THF. PROCESS 0F I'rs MANUFAUrURE. Patent. darmi January 1928. Uisclaimcr filed February 10, 1928, by the assignee, Ste/1li Fabrics mporute'on.

Hereby disclaims any fabric which falls Within claims l, i2, 3, and 4 unless the Warp threads of twistad crepe silk are twisted sonic righi` and some left and are arranged in regular order, right twist threads following left twist threads, and so on; and also disclaims any fabric which falls within claims l and 2 unless each twistedthread is formed bv twisting together a plurality of lamentary yarns such as are used as Warps in the first mentioned zone in the fabric of said claims 1 and 2.

[O/'cial Gazette February 28, 1.928.] 

